The Neapolitan Shirt Collection: Ten Steps of Handcrafting

If you're looking to preserve some of the timeless traditions in your style, a finely handcrafted shirt that stands as a loyal guardian of sartorial elegance, might be the answer you’d appreciate. Originating from the famed tailoring city of Naples in southern Italy, the hand-sewn shirt has retained its rich tradition over the years.

Inspired by this heritage, FICUS introduces the Neapolitan Shirt Collection – a luxurious series that pays homage to this legacy while reimagining it for the modern wardrobe.

We see the Neapolitan Shirt as our response to the monotony of mass production. By extracting inspiration from Naples’ traditional tailoring methods, we've refined this craft into ten meticulous hand-sewing steps. From hand-attached collars and sleeves to hand-sewn crow-stitch style buttons, every detail is not just an expression of artisanal beauty but an invitation to experience unparalleled comfort.

This season, the Neapolitan Shirt Collection continues to uphold FICUS’s exacting standards of handcrafted excellence and luxurious fabrics, while introducing a broader spectrum of colors and styles. Blending cotton, linen, and silk, the collection embodies the finest of Italian textile artistry. The interplay of these natural fibers results in an exceptionally lightweight, breathable, and visually striking fabric—delivering both comfort and sophistication. Designed for those who seek bold expression without compromising on versatility, this collection redefines classic shirting with elevated craftsmanship and refined aesthetics.

The Neapolitan Shirt SS25 Collection is now available in limited quantities.

To highlight the artistry behind our craftsmanship, all handwork in this collection features FICUS green contrast stitching, vividly illustrating the ten steps of handwork.

Step 1:

Hand-Attached Collar

This crucial step ensures a snug fit around the neck while allowing the shirt to maintain structure under jackets, offering a poised and lively look.

Step 2:

Hand-Finished Collar Stitching

The subtle yet pronounced hand-finished stitching adds both aesthetic charm and reinforcement.

Step 3:

Hand-Attached Sleeves (Spalla Camicia)

By carefully hand-attaching the sleeves, we achieve an unmatched fit and comfort with gentle pleating at the sleeve head, paying tribute to the “Spalla Camicia” tradition of Naples without being overly dramatic.

Step 4-5:

Hand-Sewn Buttonholes and Button Shank

The buttonholes are sewn by hand, and each button is attached using the crow-stitch style—a mark of true craftsmanship and a traditional sign of a handmade shirt. Additionally, we use thick mother-of-pearl buttons that complement the hand-sewn details.

Step 6-7:

Hand-Finished Front Placket and Back Pleats

Hand-finished stitching provides extra reinforcement, and subtle pleating at the back ensures comfort and a relaxed visual effect, enhancing ease of movement.

Step 8-9:

Hand-Sewn Bar Tacks on Placket and Side Seams

Reinforcement at the placket and side seams ensures durability while adding a quiet luxurious detail, even in these less visible areas.

Step 10:

Hand-Finished Pentagon Gusset

The pentagon gusset at the bottom side seam binds the front and back of the shirt, offering greater strength. We add a hand-stitching “F” symbol of FICUS on the gusset, completing the Neapolitan shirt with a hand-finished aesthetic detail.

More Details

The Neapolitan Shirt Collection is available in ready-to-wear, made-to-order (MTO), prime made-to-measure (MTM) and bespoke options.