The Neapolitan Shirt Collection: Ten Steps of Handcrafting
SHOP NOWIf you're looking to preserve some of the timeless traditions in your style, a finely handcrafted shirt that stands as a loyal guardian of sartorial elegance, might be the answer you’d appreciate. Originating from the famed tailoring city of Naples in southern Italy, the hand-sewn shirt has retained its rich tradition over the years.
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Inspired by this heritage, FICUS introduces the Neapolitan Shirt Collection – a luxurious series that pays homage to this legacy while reimagining it for the modern wardrobe.
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We see the Neapolitan Shirt as our response to the monotony of mass production. By extracting inspiration from Naples’ traditional tailoring methods, we've refined this craft into ten meticulous hand-sewing steps. From hand-attached collars and sleeves to hand-sewn crow-stitch style buttons, every detail is not just an expression of artisanal beauty but an invitation to experience unparalleled comfort.
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This season, FICUS focuses on the essence of texture. We’ve sourced materials ranging from warm, soft cashmere blends to the rare Sea Island cotton corduroy and slow-woven selvedge cotton. With fabrics from renowned names like Carlo Riva, Thomas Mason, Albini, and Fujinari, the Neapolitan Shirt collection encapsulates a perfect balance of luxury and durability.
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To highlight the artistry behind our craftsmanship, all handwork in this collection features FICUS green contrast stitching, vividly illustrating the ten steps of handwork.
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Step 1:
Hand-Attached Collar
This crucial step ensures a snug fit around the neck while allowing the shirt to maintain structure under jackets, offering a poised and lively look.
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Step 2:
Hand-Finished Collar Stitching
The subtle yet pronounced hand-finished stitching adds both aesthetic charm and reinforcement.
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Step 3:
Hand-Attached Sleeves (Spalla Camicia)
By carefully hand-attaching the sleeves, we achieve an unmatched fit and comfort with gentle pleating at the sleeve head, paying tribute to the “Spalla Camicia” tradition of Naples without being overly dramatic.
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Step 4-5:
Hand-Sewn Buttonholes and Button Shank
The buttonholes are sewn by hand, and each button is attached using the crow-stitch style—a mark of true craftsmanship and a traditional sign of a handmade shirt. Additionally, we use thick mother-of-pearl buttons that complement the hand-sewn details.
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Step 6-7:
Hand-Finished Front Placket and Back Pleats
Hand-finished stitching provides extra reinforcement, and subtle pleating at the back ensures comfort and a relaxed visual effect, enhancing ease of movement.
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Step 8-9:
Hand-Sewn Bar Tacks on Placket and Side Seams
Reinforcement at the placket and side seams ensures durability while adding a quiet luxurious detail, even in these less visible areas.
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Step 10:
Hand-Finished Pentagon Gusset
The pentagon gusset at the bottom side seam binds the front and back of the shirt, offering greater strength. We add a hand-stitching “F” symbol of FICUS on the gusset, completing the Neapolitan shirt with a hand-finished aesthetic detail.
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More Details
The Neapolitan Shirt Collection is available in ready-to-wear, made-to-order (MTO), prime made-to-measure (MTM) and bespoke options.
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